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It's Thursday March the 30 around 9:10PM and

The Vancouverite Quick Review: Century

So we watched the Opening Soon show. We've read the other reviews. Now was our time to venture over to the first/only Latin Cowboy joint, Century (432 Richards St., 604-633-2700). Alas, no website yet. Weak. But yes, it is a totally awesome setting. I got over the whole commie revolutionary angle and enjoyed the space - actually, they could have used more latin socialism me thinks. The place is like a comforatable church and there are plenty of things like this to love about Century, but can I be the grumpy party pooper that wonders aloud if it isn't 'all hat and no cattle'?

If I had just stuck to the chips and dips - the avocado mouse. You mean guacamole, right? was awesome - and just kept eating those all night, I would have been content. Although, even the chips - which were 5 wildly different and good varieties - wouldn't have been as much fun without some Tres Frijoles-Cuban Chorizo and Beans which was, well, beantastic. Now, if I say I washed it down with a "so-four-years-ago" so-so mojito, would you hold it against me? The Malbac was much better. I should have gone with my instincts. I ended with the Braised Shortribs and Beef Cheek. I'm not even clear what this whole yucca root puree was, but it was sure was tasty, and the dish was fine even in half portion form. I'm not too picky when it comes to meats, but it seemed like there was an overkill of weird meats. Oxtail? Really? I won't judge. But the salsa sorbet served with the crab burritos was just well, down right creepy. Not as creepy as the two guys downing the red stripe beers or the three wannabe hipster girls - cough. I mean cougars - who spent all night on their cell phones texting while drinking white zinfandel. Did that really happen?

Lastly. The service. It was nice to see owner Sean Sherwood on the floor serving the bread to the people. Seeing him slumming it at Yaggers after that to catch the hockey game was funny. But here's the thing. The food runner had more personality than the waiter. Oh my, what would Che do? He'd probably come back for more. The chips and the space are worth the visit alone.